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Ama Dablam Expedition

Nepal is the country where each and every part of the country speaks a though little about adventure when you walk, when you travel and in fact it's whole lot of adventures in the country. In the same respect, here we're to introduce about the Expedition and it's outline in Nepal and the programs that we provide you for your enjoyment depending upon the level of interest here on.

 

Expedition is simply defined as touching the Himalayas and experiencing the atmosphere there in. Here in Nepal, a lot of history has been made each year leaving their footprints and gathering ultimate satisfaction and experience. Following programs are designed for those who are really interested to touch and feel the atmosphere of the Himalayan range.

 

Peak Climbing is another prime attraction of Nepal. The Mountains of Nepal have stood are irresistible landmarks for the world's adventurers since Nepal opened its doors to visitors in the 1950s. Mountaineering can range from climbing the highest peak of the world to climbing lower peaks. Although by Himalayan standards 33 "Trekking Peaks" are considered minor peaks, they nonetheless provide snow and ice-climbing, and are technically quite challenging. Mountaineering teams can apply for permit at mountaineering section of the Ministry of the Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation or directly contact to your local trekking agents.

Day-01: Arrive Kathmandu, Transfer to the Hotel & welcome dinner in the evening.

 

Day 02 - 04: Stay in Kathmandu for official formalities & preparation for the expedition

 

Day-05: Kathmandu - Lukla (2860m) - fly in the morning for 45 minutes then Commence trek to Phakding (2600m- 4 hours.The 45-minute flight from Kathmandu to Lukla is one of the most spectacular flights in the world. The sixteen-seater Twin Otter takes us east into the heart of Sherpa country, giving us views of the peaks of the Khumbu region, including Everest and Ama Dablam. The landing on the tiny airstrip at Lukla is, to put it mildly, exciting. Soon after landing, we set off along the famous trail to Everest Base Camp. From Lukla 9,184 ft (2,800 m), we walk northwest and descend to the river at Phakding 8,698 ft (2,652 m), where we camp for the night.

Day-06: Phakding - Namche Bazaar (3446m) - 6½ hours.

Setting off early in the morning, we follow the river before climbing the steep hill to Namche Bazaar. Hopefully, we get our first views of Everest and Lhotse as we approach Namche. We reach the town after about six hours' walking. Namche is the most prosperous and largest settlement in the Khumbu. It is the capital of the Sherpa population, a people who closely resemble the Tibetans in looks and culture. Namche is a vibrant town with many shops and several restaurants and lodges. Superb mountain scenery makes an impressive backdrop.

 

We are likely to feel breathless from the altitude, as Namche is 11,300 ft (3,445 m) above sea level. To assist acclimatization we spend two nights here.

 

Day-07: Namche Bazar, one-day rest for acclimatization.

 

Day-08: Namche Bazaar - Tengboche (3867m) - 6½ hours.

We start the day by contouring northeast, high above the Dudh Kosi. From early in the morning, we have superb views of Ama Dablam as we descend through rhododendron forest towards the river. We cross the Dudh Kosi at Phungithanga and climb to the saddle at the top of a hill. Here lies Tengboche, the main monastery of the Khumbu area. The monastery has recently been rebuilt following a fire that totally destroyed it in 1989. There are panoramic views of the main peaks of the Khumbu, including Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dablam. We camp in Tengboche at 12,670ft (3,867m) after six and half hours walking.

 

Day 09: Tengboche - Base Camp

We continue up the valley towards Everest Base Camp for about two hours before turning right up a smaller valley which leads first to the small hamlet of Mingbo and then to base camp, nearby. This is an idyllic spot from which the majority of the route is visible. Base camp is at an altitude of about 15,000ft (4,570m) and provides a comfortable escape from the rigours of the climb. Our porters deposit their loads and leave us here for the next 3 weeks, with only our Sirdar, Sherpas and Liaison Officer remaining.

 

Day 10 - 30: Climbing period.

It is impossible to predict the exact day-by-day itinerary for this period. The team will be broken down into climbing groups who will work on the mountain for several days at a time before returning for a rest at base camp. While one group is pushing out the route and fixing ropes, another may be carrying loads to higher camps.

 

A description of the route up the South West Ridge of Ama Dablam is as follows:

 

Base Camp (4950 meters) to Advanced Base camp (5500m): Ama Dablam is one of the few Himalayan peaks that can be reached without crossing a glacier. We climb a long ridge-slope; cross a boulder field and scramble up rock slopes to reach the SW ridge where we will place advanced base camp. Camp 1 should now be visible just below 5,705m. At the end of the boulder field, slabs are crossed and then a short gully ascended, which allows access to the ridge proper in a very exposed position. Easy scrambling on the east side of the ridge leads quickly to Camp 1 5,700m. There are four or five tent platforms.

 

Advanced Base camp to Camp 1 (5700 meters): We scramble across a large ridge system, which lies at the head of the Mingbo valley. The slope is steep here, but the climbing is not technical. We place our tent at the base of a large boulder on the ridge proper.

 

Camp 1 to Camp 2 (5950m): We climb along a horizontal rock ridge and around several pinnacles (Severe, or 5.6) gaining only 100m vertical. The exposure is huge, with especially massive drop-offs on the north side of the ridge. The climbing is mostly enjoyable with a good quality of granite. At the end of the horizontal ridge we climb the Yellow Tower (two pitches Severe, or 5.5), above which we place Camp 2 on ledges and a rock pinnacle. Camp 2 may also be a bivouac, if the limited tent spaces are already taken.

 

Camp 2 to Camp 3 (6230 m): A steep snow ridge is climbed to the Grey Tower, a 20m-rock step (Severe, or 5.6). Then 3 pitches in an ice chute are climbed to regain the ridge and climb the second rock step to the mushroom ridge. This is followed to the upper face where camp 3 is made on a broad snow and rock terrace to the side of the Dablam. Camp 3 is often a bivouac.

 

Camp 3 to Summit (6812m): 2 pitches of dramatic 40+ degree ice are climbed to the side of the Dablam to reach the fluted snowfields that lead to one of the worlds finest summits, with stunning views of the south Face of Lhotse, Nuptse, Mount Everest and the Khumbu Himal.

 

The route climbs the snow and ice slope directly above Camp III and to the right hand side of the Ama Dablam (there can be hard water ice on this section). We continue to skirt the Ama Dablam on the right side and then move westwards to gain a small snowfield below the Burgschrund. The Burgschrund is crossed and then the climb heads directly to the obvious ice crest. This is followed in a magnificent position to the summit.

 

The team needs to be back at base camp by Day 30. At this point, the porters arrive for our return trek to Lukla.

 

Day 31 - 33: Return back to Lukla

We retrace our steps via Thyangboche, Namche Bazaar and Phakding to arrive back in Lukla ready for the flight to Kathmandu.

 

Day 34: Fly back to Kathmandu and rest at the hotel

 

Day 35: Hand over the garbage and do all the necessary official works.

 

Day 36: Depart from hotel and transfer to the Kathmandu airport for international flight.

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  • G.P.O. Box: 8428, Budhanilkantha, KTM, Nepal
  • Tel: +977 1 4377905 Fax:
  • E-mail: austria99@gmail.com,whitehimalayantreks@gmail.com

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