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Everest North Col

Mount Everest is the highest mountain in the world. Its elevation of 29,035 feet (8,850 meters) was determined using GPS satellite equipment on May 5, 1999. It was previously believed to be slightly lower (29,028 feet /8,848 meters), as determined in 1954 by averaging measurements from various sites around the mountain. The new elevation has been confirmed by the National Geographic Society (See the National Geographic Society's Mount Everest site for more information).

 

The first seven attempts on Everest, starting with a reconnaissance in 1921, approached the mountain from Tibet, where a route to the summit via the North Col and North Ridge seemed possible. All were unsuccessful. George Mallory, who spearheaded the first three expeditions, lost his life with Andrew Irvine during a failed ascent in 1924. Unsuccessful attempts continued through 1938, then halted during World War II. By the war's end, Tibet had closed its borders, and Nepal, previously inaccessible, had done the opposite. Starting in 1951, expeditions from Nepal grew closer and closer to the summit, via the Khumbu Icefall, the Western Cwm, over the Geneva Spur to the South Col, and up the Southeast Ridge. In 1953 Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay reached the summit.

 

Since the first successful ascent, many other individuals have sought to be the first at various other accomplishments on Everest, including many alternative routes on both the north and south sides. Italy's Reinhold Messner has climbed Everest twice without oxygen, once in four days. He is also the first to solo climb Everest, which he did in 1980. Ten years earlier, Yuichiro Miura of Japan had been the first person to descend the mountain on skis. In 1975, Junko Tabei, also of Japan, was the first woman to climb Everest. The first disabled person to attempt Everest was American Tom Whittaker, who climbed with a prosthetic leg to 24,000 feet in 1989, 28,000 feet in 1995, and finally reached the summit in 1998. The record for most ascents belongs to Sherpa Ang Rita, who has reached the summit ten times.

 

Overall, more than 600 climbers from 20 countries have climbed to the summit by various routes from both north and south. Climbers' ages have ranged from nineteen years to sixty. At least 100 people have perished, most commonly by avalanches, falls in crevasses, cold, or the effects of thin air.

 

Climbing on Everest is very strictly regulated by both the Nepalese and Chinese governments. Permits cost thousands of U.S. dollars ($50,000 for a seven member party in 1996), and are difficult to obtain, and waiting lists extend for years. Treks to Everest base camp, minus the summit attempt, are becoming increasingly popular on both the north and south sides of the mountain. On the north side, a Buddhist monastery stands at the foot of the Rongbuk Glacier, beneath Everest's spectacular north face. The monastery is one of two whose locations were selected specifically to allow religious contemplation of the great peak. The other is the Thyangboche Monastery in Nepal. The once-active Rongbuk monastery in Tibet has required much rejuvenation from the destruction it experienced following China's invasion of Tibet.

 

Mount Everest is also known by the Tibetan name Chomolangma (Goddess Mother of the Snows), and by the Nepali name Sagarmatha (Mother of the Universe).

 

:: BACK TO CLIMBING HISTORY

1921 The first British expedition explores the access over the Rongbuk glacier.

1922 Seven Sherpa climbers are killed in an avalanche, becoming the first reported deaths on Everest.

1922 The second British expedition reaches 8321 meters.

1924 The third British expedition reaches 8500 meters. On June 6, George Mallory and Andrew Irvine ascend to attempt to reach the summit but are lost after cloud closes in. An eyewitness claims seeing them near the summit.

1933 Lady Houston funds formation of aeroplanes to fly over summit to deploy the British Union Jack flag.

1934 Maurice Wilson (British) dies on attempting to climb alone.

1938 Mountaineering explorer Bill Tilman (British) leads an expedition via the north west ridge, reaching over 27,000 ft (8,200 m) without oxygen before being forced down by foul weather.

1950 Nepal opens its borders to foreigners. Bill Tilman and Charles Houston undertake a reconnaissance expedition to Everest.

1952 A Swiss expedition, including Sherpa Tenzing Norgay gives up from exhaustion, 200 metres short of the summit.

1953 The summit was first reached at 11:30 am on May 29 by the New Zealander Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay from Nepal climbing the South Col Route.

1960 On May 25, a Chinese team consisting of Wang Fuzhou, Gongbu and Qu Yinhua makes the first summit via the North Ridge.

1963 First crossing by a United States expedition, starting from the west and descending over the south-west.

1965 On May 20, Nawang Gombu Sherpa becomes the first person to reach the summit of Everest twice.

1975 On May 16, Junko Tabei of Japan is the first woman on the crest.

1975 On May 27, a Tibetan woman, Phantog, becomes the first woman to reach the summit from the Tibetan side.

1975 The British SW face expedition led by Chris Bonington. Summit reached by 2 teams made up with Doug Scott, Dougal Haston, Peter Boardman, and Sirdar Pertemba. BBC cameraman Michael Burke failed to return from a solo summit bid.

1978 Reinhold Messner (South Tyrol, Italy) and Peter Habeler (Austria) reach the summit without oxygen tanks.

1980 First winter expedition by a team from Poland (Leszek Cichy, Krzysztof Wielicki, Andrzej Czok and Jerzy Kukuczka).

1980 Reinhold Messner, first man to climb Everest alone and without oxygen tanks.

1982 On October 5, Laurie Skreslet becomes the first Canadian to reach the summit.

1984 First Australian expedition scales Everest. Expedition comprised of Tim Macartney-Snape , Greg Mortimer, Andy Henderson and Lincoln Hall, two of which (Macartney Snape and Mortimer) made it to the summit. It is known that had Hall attempted the summit, all members would have perished on the summit.

1988 Jean-Marc Boivin of France starts with a paraglider from the mountaintop.

1990 Bertrand “Zebulon” Roche of France becomes the youngest westerner to climb Everest, age 17.

1993 Ninety alpinists in the autumn alone, the commercial "Everest-climbing" starts.

1993 Ramon Blanco of Spain became the oldest person to reach the summit aged 60 years, 160 days (record beaten in 2001).

1995 Alison Hargreaves becomes the first woman to climb Everest alone and without oxygen tanks.

1996 Hans Kammerlander of South Tyrol climbs the mountain from the north side in 16 hours and 45 minutes and returns on skis.

1996 Göran Kropp of Sweden becomes first person to ride his bicycle all the way from his home in Sweden to the mountain, scale it alone without the use of oxygen tanks, and bicycle all the way back.

1998 Tom Whittaker is the first disabled climber to make it to the summit.

1998 Bear Grylls becomes the youngest Briton to climb everest and return alive.

1999 Sherpa Babu Chiri Sherpa of Nepal stays for 21 hours on the mountaintop.

2000 On October 7 Davo Karnicar from Slovenia accomplishes an uninterrupted ski descent from the top to the base camp in five hours.

2001 On May 24 15 year old Sherpa Temba Tsheri becomes the youngest person to climb Everest.

2001 On May 25, 32 year old Erik Weihenmayer, of Boulder, Colorado, becomes the first blind person to reach the summit.

2001 On the same day 64 year old Sherman Bull, of New Canaan, Connecticut, becomes the oldest person to reach the summit.

2001 Also on the same day, 19 people made it to the summit, surpassing the previous record of 10 people, everyone survived.

2003 On May 21, 21 year old Jess Roskelley, of Spokane, Washington, becomes the youngest American to summit Everest, via the South Col Route.

2003 On May 22, 23 year old Ben Clark, of Clarksville, Tennessee, becomes the second youngest American to summit Everest, via the North-Northeast Ridge Route.

2003 Yuichiro Miura becomes the oldest person to reach the summit of Everest. He was aged 70 years and 222 days when he got to the summit (on May 22).

2003 Twenty-five year old Nepalese Sherpa, Pemba Dorjie, makes the world's fastest ascent in 12 hours 45 minutes on May 23.

2003 Only three days later, Sherpa Lakpa Gelu breaks this record with 10 hours 56 minutes. After a short dispute with Dorije, the tourism ministry confirms Gelu's record in July [4].

2004 Pemba Dorjie breaks his own record, this time ascending the mountain in 8 hours 10 minutes on May 21 [5].

2005 Chinese government-sponsored survey team with 24 members reaches the peak on May 22 to anchor surveying equipment for the remeasurement of summit height. GPS, ground radar equipment, as well as traditional surveying methods were used to assess snow and ice thickness for the new measurement, and to compare it with historical data [6].

2005. On May 14, a Eurocopter helicopter flew to the peak for the first time. It was reported to have landed but this was later disputed, with the pilot telling Nepalese authorities that the landing was actually 3300 feet (1000 m) below the summit [7].

2005 Moni Mulepati and Pemba Dorjie get married on top of the mountain.

Day 1: Arrival Kathmandu. Transfer to hotel.

Day 2: Kathmandu. Briefing and shopping.

Day 3: Kathmandu.

Day 4: Fly to Lhasa (3600m).

Day 5: Lhasa, visit Drepung and Sera monasteries.

Day 6: Lhasa, visit Potala, Jokhang and Barkhor.

Day 7: Free day in Lhasa

Day 8: Drive to Shigatse (3900m).

Day 9: Drive to Shekar (4350m).

Day 10: Drive to Base Camp (5200m).

Day 11-14: At the Base Camp

Day 15:Trek to intermediate camp (6200m).

Day 16: Advance Base Camp (6500m).

 

Day 17-56; Climbing Period Mt. Everest 8850 m.

 

Day 57 :Return to Advance Base Camp.

Day 58; Return to Base Camp.

Day 59: Cleaning up Base Camp.

Day 60: Drive to Nyalam.

Day 61: Drive to Kathmandu. Transfer to hotel.

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